When “relationship-to-table” restaurant Feld opened in 2024, early reviews had me concerned. Beyond the $225-per-person price tag, early reviewers noted uninspired plating, inconsistent flavors, and under-salted dishes. One such Substack went viral, when the seasoned reviewer called it one of the worst fine dining experiences they had in 20 years.
Two years, a Michelin star, and a glowing review from friend and Tribune food critic Louisa Chu later, and I was looking forward to finally trying the Ukrainian Village hotspot. Our group arrived at Feld Friday night, right before a massive thunderstorm moved through Chicago. From the moment we walked in, we were completely tucked away from the outside world: no windows to track the traffic, time, or thunder.
The space accommodates just 20 people seated around the prepping station in the middle of the room like a theater in the round. The leather-bound menus, assortment of stunning dishware, and dope music at a reasonable volume all worked well together to create a calm and relaxing environment.
Now to the most important part: the food. I was lulled in with a refreshing round of tea and an opportunity to peruse the drink menu without feeling rushed. Once the glasses were full, the show began.
The first course at Feld features nine unique dishes. (Jacoby Cochran / City Cast Chicago)
I had honestly forgotten that Feld features a 30-course tasting menu, some of which included:
- Halved cherries with an array of emulsion blends,
- A salmon belly day lily,
- Grilled plums and apricots,
- And a strawberry-stuffed mussel that stole the show.
The dishes ranged from simply plated to technical masterpieces. And the accompanying stories heightened the entire experience. Cheese from an award-winning farm in Wisconsin, lobster from a stubborn fishing boat in Maine, custom pottery from a Japanese artisan they stumbled upon during a separate farm visit. It sounds pretentious here, but in the moment, each of the seven or so chefs who visited our table throughout the night brought an individual style and energy that felt polished, intentional, and accessible.
I learned this is what “relationship-to-table” means in practice. The most unexpected highlight of the night was the pea flight: pea soup, grilled peas, chilled peas, pea tofu, and pea panna cotta. Sure, I know peas are in season. I go to the farmers market. But it was clear how much the staff appreciated, admired, and relied on their various providers and partners. The menu felt like a dance between the chefs, the vendors, and the available seasonal ingredients!
I absolutely loved 27 of the 30 courses I received. I’d love to tell you what dish to look forward to, but the menu changes weekly, if not daily.
Seeing owner/chef Jake Potashnick visit every table, serving, and even holding the umbrella for us as we exited the restaurant for our Uber was refreshing. I would suggest this restaurant to anyone on the fence: You will not regret the experience.
